Where growing photoperiod weed plants is all rock and roll (with that straight 4/4 rhythm, and light cycles you can count on), autoflowers are all jazz. They move to their own beat and do their own thing.
That said, where jazz is 100% a more difficult discipline for musicians to nail down than rock or pop, the opposite is true here.
Autoflowers make things simpler. More straightforward. And much more predictable.
No need to switch light schedules, overly worry about nutrient requirements (to a certain extent anyway), have to try and hide huge plants, or wait endlessly for buds. Autoflowering weed plants just get on with it, and offer ridiculous results in less than 12 weeks when you get it all dialed in.
And dialing in your autoflower cultivation techniques is what this write-up is all about. Not a quick overview, but every single thing you need to have a pretty deep and complete understanding of to grow the best possible autoflowering marijuana plants.
I’ll go over grow space setup, soil vs hydro, lighting, nutrients, training techniques, common mistakes, harvest timing, drying, curing, and a full 12-week breakdown of what to expect and when.
- What are autoflowers, and how do they differ from photoperiod strains?
- Advantages and disadvantages of growing autoflowers
- Preparing for your autoflower grow
- Choosing the right autoflower strain
- Week-by-week autoflower growth stages
- Do autoflowers really finish in 10 weeks?
- Post-harvest processes
- Common challenges and troubleshooting
- Maximizing autoflower yields
- Pot size, transplanting, and root health
- Autoflowers in small spaces or stealth grows
- Autoflowers and companion planting
- Realistic yield expectations and tracking your grow
What are autoflowers, and how do they differ from photoperiod strains?
There are two main ‘types’ of weed plants available to buy in seed form. I’m not talking about Sativa or Indica (although they're also two main subtypes that all weed plants can be loosely classified as).
What I’m referring to is photoperiod and autoflowering weed strains.
The major point of difference between the two is that autoflowers switch to the flowering stage of growth according to age, not light schedule. Once they've got about three or four weeks old, they switch from the vegetative growth stage straight over to producing buds, no matter if they are getting 12 hours of light or 24.
It’s a genetic trait inherited from Cannabis ruderalis, a wild weed variety adapted to survive in central Russia's and Siberia’s short, brutal summers. Unlike Cannabis sativa L. (which is where all photoperiod genetics come from - both Sativa and Indica), Cannabis ruderalis evolved to finish fast.
Photoperiod strains stay in a vegetative state until the light schedule changes, either manually when you grow indoors from 18 hours of light per day to 12 hours on, 12 off - or if you’re growing outdoors, nature does the job for you as summer transitions to autumn. That gives you more control, but also more room to mess things up. And photoperiod strains grown indoors are quite sensitive to light leaks, where autos simply don’t give a damn.
Autos are faster, smaller (well, not so much these days, cultivar dependent), and less reliant on careful planning. You can keep the lights on the same schedule from start to finish. No need to “flip” anything.
This makes them perfect for growers who want an easy, straightforward experience, or who don’t have the luxury of space, stealth, or time. They don’t mind being on a windowsill, under a budget light, or tucked in a shed. And they’ll still do their thing.
That said, the better quality the light, substrate, nutrients, and water you give your autos, the more they’ll give you.
Advantages and disadvantages of growing autoflowers

Let’s talk benefits first.
Autoflowers grow fast. Really fast.
Many go from seed to harvest in 11 weeks or fewer, meaning you can squeeze multiple harvests into one season. They’re easy to keep compact (with a little human intervention) - ideal if you’re growing in a wardrobe or on a balcony.
They don’t need a strict light schedule, which means you can keep lights on 18 or 20 hours a day for the entire grow cycle and not worry about flowering triggers.
They’re also pretty hardy little ladies, thanks to a decent part of their genetics evolving in less than ideal conditions.
But that speed and simplicity doesn’t come for free. There are a couple of key but not necessarily disadvantages, but considerations you have to take into account.
Autos can’t be paused. Doesn’t sound like the biggest issue, but it can be.
Once the seed bursts, they’re locked in. You can’t extend the veg stage to recover from stress, fix deficiencies, or bulk them up further. Some strains are also more sensitive to training and yields from each plant will usually (but again, not always) lower compared to well-managed photoperiod plants.
They’re best for growers who are happy to work with a plant on its schedule, not theirs. If you’re looking for a strain you can push, sculpt, and maximize, photos might suit you better.
But if you just want an easy grow that can produce a really decent sized batch of bud and minimal faff, autos are hard to beat.
Preparing for your autoflower grow
Before you plant a single seed, get the foundation right. That means choosing your grow medium, deciding on indoor or outdoor, sorting your lights, and having a rough plan for nutrients and ph. Autoflowers don’t give you much wiggle room once the show begins.
Choosing the optimal growing medium: soil vs hydroponics
Soil is the most forgiving option for beginners.
It acts as a buffer, gives you room to make small mistakes, and doesn’t need constant monitoring. A light mix with added perlite and compost is ideal. Avoid heavy, rich soils straight out of the bag - autos don’t like being smothered or overfed, especially when they're young. To make life even easier, check out all the cannabis-specific soil mixes out there.
Hydroponics gives you faster growth and potentially higher yields with more cannabinoid potency (although the terpenes can take a slight hit), but it’s much more sensitive. You’ll need to watch pH and EC levels closely, make regular adjustments, and clean your system well. Even minor mistakes can have big consequences.
If you’re new to growing, soil is still the simplest entry point - but coco coir deserves a serious look.
It gives you most of the speed and root oxygenation of hydro without the same level of complexity. You’ll still need to feed with every watering (unless you're using powder nutes - I’ll get into this more a bit later) and keep an eye on pH, but it’s far more forgiving than a full hydro setup.
Think of it as the sweet spot between ease and performance: perfect for growers who want to level up without going mad scientist.
Growing medium comparison: soil vs coco vs hydro
Soil | Coco Coir | Hydroponics | |
Ease of use | Easiest and most forgiving | A step-up in complexity, but still beginner-friendly | Complex and less forgiving |
Nutrient control | Low - nutrients often already present | High - you control inputs from the start | Very high - must be adjusted regularly |
Watering frequency | Every few days | Daily or less, depending on pot size and nutrients used | Timed or continuous |
Feeding method | Can go without feeding for weeks | Usually feed with each watering, though buffered powders can stretch intervals | Always fed via water system |
pH management | Useful but not critical (6.0 to 7.0) | Important (aim for 5.8 to 6.2) | Essential (5.5 to 6.2 range) |
Buffer against mistakes | Strong natural buffer | Moderate buffer - better than hydro, less than soil | Very little - mistakes show fast |
Growth speed | Slower start, steady throughout | Fast - good balance of speed and control | Fastest when conditions are ideal |
Yield potential | Good (can be great when dialed in) | High | Very high, but depends on skill |
Root oxygenation | Moderate, especially in plastic pots | Excellent in fabric pots or air-pruned containers | Excellent |
Setup complexity | Very simple - plug and play | Slightly more hands-on but manageable | Complex - requires pumps, timers, and reservoirs |
Cleaning and maintenance | Low - occasional top-up or flush | Medium - needs flushing between grows | High - regular cleaning and monitoring needed |
Cost to start | Low | Medium - needs coco, cal-mag, and nutrients | High - setup can get expensive depending on the style of hydro |
Good match for autos? | Very good - gentle and forgiving | Excellent - fast, controlled, and manageable | Amazing (if you know what you’re doing) |
Setting up your grow space: indoor vs outdoor
Where you grow has a big effect on how well your plants will do.
Indoors gives you full control over light, temperature, humidity, and airflow. You can grow year-round, run multiple harvests (even perpetual harvests), and avoid pests or storms. But it costs more upfront and requires gear - grow lights, fans, filters, and timers - the list can feel a little endless once you get going.
Outdoors is cheaper and no need to worry about huge power bills. Autos can thrive in back gardens, balconies, or greenhouses if you live somewhere with a decent climate and long enough days. Because they don’t rely on changing daylight hours to flower, you can even run multiple outdoor harvests between spring and autumn (or all year, if you’re lucky enough to live in a climate that allows it).
The main risks outdoors are pests, wind, temperature swings, and nosey neighbors. Indoors gives you more predictability but demands a bit more prep. Choose based on your space, privacy, and budget.
Understanding light schedules
Autoflowers don’t need the standard 18/6 to 12/12 flip. They’ll flower regardless of light hours, which opens the door to a few common options:
- 18/6: The most popular schedule. Good energy savings, plenty of light, and gives the plant time to rest.
- 20/4: Slightly more growth, slightly more cost. Works well with fast-flowering strains.
- 24/0: Maximum light exposure. Some growers swear by it. Others think plants need darkness to thrive.
There’s no single best choice. What matters more is light intensity and coverage. LEDs are the go-to now for most homegrown now as they’re cheap to run, cool enough for small tents, and better tailored to the full growth spectrum than ever before. Aim for around 100–200 watts per plant, depending on your setup.
That said, HID options still remain the gold standard for commercial growers. They just offer a level of light penetration that LEDs still can’t match.
Make sure your lights can be adjusted in height or dimmed. As plants grow, you’ll need to keep that sweet spot between stretch and burn (less critical for LEDs than HIDs)
Nutrient requirements and pH levels for autoflowering plants
Autos are sensitive to overfeeding, especially in the early weeks. Start light - about 25% of the usual feed for photoperiods - and ramp up only if the plant shows it's hungry.
In veg, nitrogen is key. Once flowers form, switch to a bloom formula with more phosphorus and potassium. Don’t keep feeding veg nutrients into flower - it’ll cause leafy buds and lower potency.
And watch your pH like a hawk if you are going down the hydro or coco-coir road - shoot for 5.8 to 6.2. Nutrient lockout from poor pH is one of the most common problems and will mess with your plant even if everything else looks right. If in doubt, less is more. You can always add more food. You can’t un-burn roots.
Soil grown autoflowering weed plants are less picky when it comes to pH but aim for 6.2 to 6.8 for your water if you can.
Choosing the right autoflower strain
You can have the most expensive lighting rig, the finest feed and water, and a spotless grow room, but if the strain doesn’t suit your setup or growing conditions, you’re going to struggle to get the results and the effects from the buds you’re looking for.
Here's a nice, diverse selection from our autoflowering seed offerings - there's something here for everyone, and it covers all the best options from the last few years. Each and every option below can fill your bud jars a few times over if you grow them right.
Granddaddy Purple Autoflower

A deep purple classic with a tendency to anchor you to the sofa. Grandaddy Purple Auto is old-school in all the right ways - sweet grapey goodness mixed with an earthy base, and a body-high that is hard to beat. Ideal for an evening warm down, (24% THC and a 70% Indica hybrid) or anyone after some proper calm. Grows compact, finishes fast, and doesn’t kick up a fuss.
Zkittlez Autoflower

Zkittlez Auto is, hands down, one of the very best autoflowering strains we have ever produced. Tropical flavors, high THC, and a bright, upbeat effect that doesn’t tip into anxiety.
The plant itself is a neat, compact little thing - well-behaved and happy in tight spaces. Ideal for balconies, cupboards, or first-timers, and often finishes in less than 10 weeks.
Runtz Autoflower

Runtz Auto has won every award possible, and in this case, it’s definitely well deserved. It smells like berry candy, hits like a backhanded compliment, and still manages to stay friendly. Mid-sized and very manageable, with buds that seem to forget they're on a compact auto and swell up like photoperiod colas. A good mix of joy and focus - a true all day option.
Permanent Marker Autoflower

Permanent Marker Autoflower is one of the newer auto-hybrids that leans into funk and fuel with a lovely, sweeter aftertaste. Permanent Marker is capable of pushing the 4-foot mark and doesn’t demand much from you beyond basic care.
It rewards consistency with dense, greasy buds offering up as much as 28-30% THC and a knock-you-off-your-feet effect that’s also oddly clear-headed. More chilled than chaotic, if you give it space to breathe, potentially the best balanced hybrid on the auto market right now, and super popular with growers of all levels.
Bruce Banner Autoflower

The name isn’t an exaggeration. Bruce Banner Autoflower has a knack for creeping up on you with bright, euphoric energy before slamming the brakes into full-body stillness with plus 25% THC potential.
SH is 65% sativa-leaning, so she does take a week or two longer than the others, but pays you back with thick, frosty flowers that smell of citrus, diesel, and quiet ambition. Not subtle. Not small. But so much fun to grow.
Gelato Autoflower

Gelato Autoflower has been a top-selling autoflowering option since the day it hit shelves, and for good reason.
Smooth, creamy, sweet without being sickly, and strong enough to make you pause mid-sentence (again, plus 25% THC potential). The plant stays compact, doesn’t throw tantrums, and delivers balanced effects: part relaxation, part soft-focus daydream.
It’s the kind of strain you grow once and then never leaves.
Week-by-week autoflower growth stages
Week 1 - Germination and seedling stage

This is the most delicate part of the process and the best way to germinate your seeds. The seed cracks, the taproot emerges, and within a day or two, the first tiny leaves appear. The goal here is not speed. It’s stability.
I like to drop my seeds in 6.0 pH water for about 8 hours, then use the paper towel method to germinate.
Keep the environment warm and gently humid, not soggy.
Aim for temps between 72 and 82°F (22 to 28°C), with humidity hovering around 65–70%.
A gentle LED or CFL light 40–60 cm above the seedling is ideal - low heat, soft intensity. Too much light too soon can cook it. Too little, and it’ll stretch.
Don't overwater. This is the week when beginners sometimes really mess up their grow. Water lightly around the base once roots are established, not across the whole pot. Root systems are still shallow and don’t need much beyond consistent moisture and oxygen.
By day 7, you’re aiming for the second or third node to have just started forming. If the seedling is leaning or reaching too far, raise the pot or lower the light.
Week 2 - Early vegetative growth

Now things start to pick up. Leaves broaden, the stem thickens, and roots begin digging in. You’re not seeing dramatic growth yet, but what’s happening below the surface is just as important.
Humidity can drop slightly to around 60%. Consistent temperature and soft airflow help discourage mold, making it easier to identify and treat early. At this stage, a small desk fan on low will do the job.
You can start feeding at quarter strength if seeds are in coco or hydro. Look for signs of hunger but avoid trying to push the plant. Autoflowers hate being rushed.
No need to start training yet but start paying attention to node spacing and early plant posture. If your light is too high, the plant will stretch. If it’s too low, you risk light stress. You’re finding balance here.
Weeks 3 to 4 - Late vegetative stage and training techniques

This is the main growth spurt. Plants often double or triple in size during late veg. Side branches form. Internodes widen. If you’re going to train the plant, this is your moment.
Low-stress training (LST) works well. Bend the main stem sideways using soft ties or garden wire and fix it to the edge of the pot. You’re not forcing anything - you’re guiding light to lower bud sites and spreading out the canopy.
If you’ve got a squat Indica-leaning strain, LST is all you need. If your plant is tall and fast-growing, you can try a single topping - but only if it's robust, and only if it's still early in week 3. Leave it too late and you’ll stall flower formation or stress the plant to the point here topping will hurt the final yield size.
Nutrient demand increases now, especially nitrogen. If you’re still on light doses, consider stepping up slowly. Monitor leaf color and tips. If they darken or curl, pull back.
At this stage, you should have a healthy plant with multiple arms and an even spread. Avoid trimming unless absolutely necessary (or if the fan leaves are getting a little out of control) - autos don’t love stress.
Week 5 - Pre-flowering indicators and nutrient adjustments

By now, you’ll notice white pistils forming at the base of the nodes. This is the pre-flowering stage, and it means the plant is shifting from growth to pumping out flowers. It will also stretch (sometimes dramatically, strain dependent) over the next 7 to 10 days.
This is your cue to switch nutrient formulas. Cut back nitrogen slightly and start increasing phosphorus and potassium. Most bloom nutrients are designed for this stage. If you’ve been feeding properly so far, the transition should be smooth.
Raise your lights if you haven’t already, especially if you're using a HID light. Stretching plants can close the distance fast. Keep a close eye on heat and intensity. Burned tips or tacoing leaves mean it’s too much.
You also want to start slowly lowering the humidity - aim for 50 to 55%. Increased airflow helps prevent bud rot before it even becomes a threat. Pistils are delicate. Any stagnant air can invite problems.
Training should stop now. Any stress at this point can lead to smaller buds or delayed development. Let the structure settle and focus on really dialing in the growing environment.
Weeks 6 to 8 -Flowering stage: bud development and environmental control

If you hit week six and everything is going great, congrats - and welcome to the fun. Bud sites start stacking, trichomes begin to drip out, and your plant shifts all energy toward flower production. This is when it starts to really smell like actual weed, not just plants.
Focus on consistency.
Keep daytime temps hovering between 72 and 79°F (22 to 26°C) and don’t let nighttime dips fall much below 65°F (18°C). Humidity should drop to 45–50% to lower the risk of mold. Use a hygrometer if you haven’t already, and get proper airflow moving around the plant, not blasting it, just circulating gently.
Nutrients now lean fully toward bloom. A good PK boost helps tighten buds and drive resin production. Keep feeding on schedule, but don’t overdo it. If you’re seeing dark green leaves or burnt tips, you’re pushing too hard.
Trichomes start forming during this stretch, especially by week 7. Look closely. If they’re still clear, it’s early. You're moving into peak potency as they go cloudy (with some amber), but this won't happen fully until week 10/11/12 depending on the genetics you’re growing. Amber ones mean THC is degrading into CBN, which gives more of a sleepy effect.
Resist the urge to mess with anything. No more defoliation, no late training. Every stress response can eat into your final bag weight.
Weeks 9 and 10 - Late flowering: flushing and preparing for harvest

Your plant’s telling you it’s nearly done. Pistils should be turning brown and curling in. The smell deepens and hiding that stank can become a bit of an issue (if needed). The upper colas are going to be looking nothing short of magnificent at this point.
This is the window for flushing - a slightly contentious point through the growing world, so take this as a recommendation but not a golden rule. This is what I do, and it works great for me.
If you’re in soil, that means around 7 days of plain pH-balanced water. In coco or hydro, drop nutrient levels to near-zero and just run water through for about 4 to 5 days. You’re not starving the plant - you’re letting it burn off what’s stored.
Your fan leaves will start to yellow. Growth will slow. That’s exactly what should happen. Don’t panic and start adding feed. You’re cleaning out the roots, not fixing deficiencies.
Monitor trichomes closely now. Use a jeweler’s loupe or USB scope and check multiple bud sites, not just the top cola. Clear trichomes mean underdone. Mostly cloudy with a few amber? That’s the sweet spot for most growers. All amber? Expect a heavier, more couch-locked hit.
Weeks 11 to 12 - Harvest time: identifying maturity and harvest techniques

Ignore the breeder’s “10 week auto” label for a moment. There are so many factors that can and will affect when your plants are actually ready for harvest - in my experience, most will go at least 11 weeks, but some do finish earlier.
Weeks 10 to 12 is your harvest window - but only if the plant agrees. Look at bud density, pistil color, trichome state, and overall plant posture.
But really, the only surefire way of knowing when your plants are ready for the chop is by keeping a close eye on the trichomes. Get a USB microscope that you can easily connect to your phone and check the trichomes every single day. I like to pull them down when about 70% of the trichomes are cloudy and 30% or so have started to turn amber.
When you’re ready, cut the plant at the base or in branches, depending on space. Some growers wet trim straight away (removing sugar leaves before drying) but not me. I hang the plant whole and trim it later once it’s drier. Both work, but trimming is easier when the buds are a bit drier (and some growers think dry trimming protects the trichomes - I’m not sure if there's much of a difference, to be honest).
Hang the branches or whole plant in a dark room with temperatures around 18°C and humidity between 50 and 60%. Use a small fan to keep air moving gently. No direct airflow. Drying should take 7 to 10 days, depending on density and conditions.
Buds are ready for curing when small stems snap instead of bend, and the outer buds feel dry but hopefully not crispy.
Do autoflowers really finish in 10 weeks?
Short answer: Sometimes, but I never bet on it.
You’ll see seed banks and breeders advertising “ready in 9–10 weeks from seed.” That’s not wrong, but it’s based on best-case, lab-like conditions.
In the real world, with normal gear and average weather or grow tents, most autoflowers take closer to 11 or even 12 weeks (or a little longer, for strains heavy on the Sativa side of the scale) to finish properly.
Plenty of factors add time:
- Cooler night temperatures or big swings in outdoor conditions
- Lower light intensity or poor spectrum coverage
- Slight overwatering, underfeeding, or early stress
- Training methods like LST or topping (even if done well)
- Natural genetic variation between plants of the same strain
- And occasionally, breeder optimism that leans more on marketing than accuracy
It’s not that your plant is slow. It’s just being a plant. Buds fatten in their own time. Trichomes ripen when they’re ready. If you harvest at week 10 because the website said so, you’ll almost always be leaving flavor and potency on the table.
Watch the plant, not the clock. That extra 7 to 10 days is often where the good stuff happens.
Post-harvest processes
How to dry your harvested bud

Drying is not an afterthought. It’s the bridge between growing and actually enjoying all that hard work. Do it wrong, and all the effort you gave your plant will be wasted.
Aim for a cool, dark spot, around 64 to 68°F (18 to 20°C), with steady airflow and humidity at 50 to 60%. Hang branches or colas (or the whole plant), leaving a good amount of space between each one. No cramming. No drying racks unless you’re dealing with popcorn buds or limited room.
The goal is a slow, even dry over 7 to 10 days. If the outside dries too fast, you’ll trap moisture inside. If it dries too slowly, mold becomes a threat.
The easiest way to know if you're ready for curing jars is to try and snap a small internal bud stem. If it cracks instead of bending, you’re good to cure.
The curing and burping process

Curing improves everything. Smoother smoke, stronger flavor, deeper stank, longer shelf life.
Once dry, place your buds in wide-mouthed glass jars. Fill to around 70% capacity so air can move, then seal and store in a cool, dark cupboard.
For the first week, burp the jars once or twice a day for a few minutes. Let air exchange, release trapped moisture and give the buds a little stir if needed. After 7 to 10 days, switch to every few days. After four weeks, your flower should be smooth. After eight weeks, it’ll be some of the best you’ve smoked.
Don’t rush. Even okay, bud turns into gold with patience. The longer the cure (up to about 5 or 6 months), the better.
Storing your cannabis: maintaining quality over time

After curing, keep your jars sealed, cool, and in the dark. Add a humidity pack if you want to lock things in, but if your environment’s stable, it’s not essential.
Never store in plastic bags. Never store in the fridge. And unless you’re freezing for long-term extraction, don’t use the freezer either - it shatters trichomes and changes texture.
If you have dried and cured correctly, your weed will only continue to mature and get better - and last in that peak state for about 18 months.
Common challenges and troubleshooting

Identifying and addressing nutrient deficiencies
Cannabis leaves are like early warning systems. Yellowing from the bottom up? That’s often nitrogen. Brown spots? It could be calcium. Yellow between veins? Magnesium. Curled new growth? Maybe iron or pH trouble.
But before you reach for the supplements, check your ph. Nute deficiencies often come from nutrient lockout caused by pH drift. Correct that, and symptoms often fix themselves.
When you do need to add something, go slow. Half dose at most. Monitor over the next few days. Don’t try to fix everything at once.
Managing pests and mold in autoflower cultivation
Pests like spider mites and fungus gnats don’t care if your grow is small or indoors. They can still find a way to sneak on in uninvited. So, prevention is key - be proactive from the very start and you’ll likely save yourself a bunch of annoyance and heartache down the road.
Clean your grow space before each run. Quarantine new clones or companion plants. Keep airflow moving. Use sticky traps near the base. If you spot early pests (you should be checking every single plant at least once every two days - undersides of the fan leaves included), neem oil or insecticidal soap can help - but be very careful spraying if the buds have started growing. If you hit them, you’ll just lock chemicals and moisture into your flower.
Mold thrives in stale, damp air. It's better to have an extra fan in your tent than one too few.
If your buds are dense and your humidity stays above 55-60%, you’re inviting it. Prune lightly for airflow, keep RH steady, and check colas regularly.
Avoiding common mistakes in autoflower growing
Most problems come from doing too much, too fast.
New growers often overwater, overfeed, or panic-trim because they see a yellow tip or a droopy leaf. Autos don’t have time to bounce back. Every mistake eats into your harvest window.
Keep things steady. Stick with proven methods. Don’t add new nutrients or try advanced training unless you understand the strain you are growing inside and out and are sure that any heavy training will actually work.
And remember, sometimes the best thing you can do is nothing at all.
Maximizing autoflower yields

Training techniques: LST, topping, SCroG, and defoliation
Autoflowers respond well to low-stress training but can struggle when the stress increases.
The aim is to open up the plant’s shape, not force it into submission. Early in veg, bend the main stem sideways, pin it down, and let side branches catch up. This creates an even canopy and exposes more bud sites to light.
Topping can increase yields, but only if timed perfectly, just after the third node for autos. Get it wrong and you’ll stunt the plant.
Defoliation is useful for airflow and light penetration but should be minimal. Remove the odd leaf blocking a bud site, not half the canopy. Less is more should be your go to mantra when starting out with autos.
If you’re growing a bigger auto and want to keep the canopy totally even, I definitely recommend setting up a SCroG net - short for “screen of green.” It’s a horizontal mesh placed above the plant, and as your branches grow up through the holes, you tuck them sideways rather than letting them shoot upwards. This spreads the plant out flat, so every bud site gets its fair share of light. Just be gentle and patient - it’s more weaving than wrestling.
But remember, this is all beginner advice - once you have a few runs under your belt and start to really understand your chosen autos, you can start to experiment. Or do whatever you want from the start - growing weed is supposed to be fun, so if you don't mind making mistakes, and potentially having to start over from the top, get wild.
Optimizing environmental conditions for yield
Great yields don’t come from expensive nutrients or long-held secrets (for the most part). They come from consistent conditions, and proper plant care.
- Keep daytime temps hovering between 72 and 79°F (22 to 26°C) and don’t let nighttime dips fall much below 65°F (18°C).
- Keep humidity around 50% during flower
- Maintain constant airflow and CO₂ exchange
- Feed properly, not heavily
- Let the plant tell you what it wants
Autos reward the grower who listens, not the one who fiddles. If your environment is clean, your timing is right, and your light is solid, you’ll be surprised at what these plants can deliver.
Pot size, transplanting, and root health

The root zone decides how well your plant grows and how much stress it can take. With autos, there’s no luxury of recovery time, so root health becomes non-negotiable.
I always start my autoflower seeds (once germinated) directly in their final pot. That means no transplant shock, no delays, and no risk of the plant trying to flower while still figuring out where its roots belong.
Fabric pots are ideal.
They let air in, stop roots from circling, and make overwatering less likely.
As for pot size, 3 to 5 gallons (around 11 to 18 liters) hits the sweet spot. Go with 3 gallons if you’re growing short indicas or want to run several plants in one tent. Use 5 gallons for bigger sativa-leaning autos or if you want to push for yield. Anything smaller risks root binding, especially in warmer climates or under high-intensity lights.
If you do have to transplant, do it early. Seedling to final pot by day 7 at the latest. Be gentle, disturb the root ball as little as possible, and water in lightly to settle the soil.
Remember, unless you are running a pure hydro grow, you can't visually track root development or health, which means the only sign something’s gone wrong might be a plant that stalls, wilts, or yellows from the bottom up.
If that happens, it’s usually a watering issue or compacted roots. Keep your medium airy, your watering light but consistent, and your pots breathable. Healthy roots make everything else work. Neglect them
Autoflowers in small spaces or stealth grows

One of the best things about autos is that they don’t need much room. You can grow a full plant start to finish in a space the size of a mini fridge, as long as you plan properly.
If you’re in a small tent or repurposed cupboard, choose a short, fast-flowering strain and go with LST instead of topping. Keep your light footprint compact (a 100–150W LED is often plenty) and make sure you can control both intake and outflow. Heat and humidity rise fast in tight spaces, especially once the canopy fills out.
For stealth grows (actually, all grows), carbon filters are essential.
Even small autos start smelling strong by week 6. By week 9, they really push out that stank.
Outdoors, balconies, terraces, or greenhouses work well. Camouflage with tomatoes or herbs, keep pots moveable, and choose strains with low visual impact. You’re not trying to hide from satellites, just neighbors.
Whatever space you’re using, keep airflow moving and don’t overcrowd. Autos need room to breathe, even when they’re tiny.
Autoflowers and companion planting
This one’s for the outdoor growers. Companion plants won’t supercharge your yield, but they can help your autos stay healthy, undisturbed, and low-stress through the full cycle.
Some plants naturally deter pests. Marigolds keep aphids and whiteflies at bay. Basil and lavender help with mosquitoes and gnats. Yarrow and dill attract predatory insects like ladybirds and lacewings, which is the best defence against mites and thrips.
Cover crops like clover or alfalfa help improve soil structure and retain moisture, which is useful in dry climates. They also pull nitrogen toward the surface, which can help the plants explode during late veg.
Avoid plants that attract sap-sucking insects or compete aggressively for nutrients - sunflowers and mint can be more trouble than they’re worth in small plots.
Keep spacing sensible. You want your auto weed plants to benefit from their neighbors, not fight them. And don’t forget airflow. Dense clusters of companion plants can block breezes and create warm, humid pockets.
With the right mix, you’re not just growing weed. You’re building a small, functional ecosystem.
Realistic yield expectations and tracking your grow
Let’s be honest - autoflowers weren’t originally designed for monster yields. That doesn’t mean they can’t deliver (especially some of the newer options), but you need to approach them with the right mindset.
Under good conditions, you can expect between 50 and 250 grams per plant. Small, fast strains might top out at 60. Larger, slower autos under strong lights and solid training can hit 250. But pushing too hard often backfires. Stretching the plant, overfeeding, or mistiming your training usually costs you more than it gives back.
The best way to improve over time is to track your grows.
Not just feeding schedules, but everything: pot size, strain behavior, light distance, environmental swings, germination success. A cheap notebook or spreadsheet will do.
Take progress pics. Not for social media, but for yourself. You’ll start noticing patterns - when a certain strain stretches, how long it takes for pre-flowers to appear, how light your feeding can go before you see deficiencies.
Grow enough autos, and you’ll get a feel for what each one needs. But documenting your setups helps shorten that learning curve massively.